The BGD (Bad Girl Dress)

According to Shane Watson in yesterday’s Sunday Times Style, the BGD (Bad Girl Dress) is as crucial in one’s wardrobe as the white shirt, the black pump or, indeed, the scaffold-esque wonderwear that underpins it. We’ve all got one - the dress with a mind of its own, the dress that gets you into a whole world of trouble, the dress that is The Dress. It may not be scandalously short, nor siren red, and it certainly isn’t as facetious as its sluttier younger sister, The Pulling Dress (although it could probably teach her a thing or two). No, it varies from person to person - one girl’s crotch-skimming leather frock is another girl’s backless maxi, or even her vintage Le Smoking YSL tuxedo.

Watson’s excellent point was that The BGD comes in many incarnations - each as varied as the wearers themselves. It’s hard to imagine Bianca Jagger’s Studio 54 shenanignans being half as heady in a thigh-skimming mini, or Marilyn’s breathy serenade to JFK being quite as saucy had she been wearing the white dress from The Seven Year Itch. Instead she chose a floor-sweeping nude number, sprayed with rhinestones and so tight she had to be sewn into it, with no room for any underwear. It takes the wearer, and amplifies the Bad. For example, Jessica Rabbit lamented, “I’m not bad, I’m just drawn that way”, and her curve-clinging backless red gown was, too. But what was the ultimate BGD transformation? Undisputedly Bad Sandy in the closing scene of Grease. Yes, her oil-slick leggings and off-the-shoulder top did not a dress make (remember what I said about variety?), but the ensemble was unparalleled in its superhero-esque sartorial powers. And that’s exactly what The BGD should be - the cape to your Clark Kent specs and the kryptonite to the good girl within.

Originally published for Ly.st

The Leather Report

No longer just the domain of Elizabeth Hurley and bad 80s tribute bands, leather pants have squeaked firmly back onto the fashion radar and taken up residence in my wardrobe, usurping all else. In fact, they’ve become such a style stalwart of mine that I’ve started getting that funny “Er, have you washed those?” look from people at work. It’s out of my hands, though, I’m afraid. Namely, I’m a sucker for a catwalk trend and if there’s a slightly distasteful, louche undertone to it, all the better. If it allows me to channel Cher circa Gypsies, Tramps and Thieves as well, then it’s a bloody party.

Leather pant benefits are threefold. One; they act as a precipitation-proof sheath in the most stylish of ways; impenetrable, unyielding and a hell of a lot cooler than a wetsuit and Wellies. Two; they hold everything in and hoick everything up with just as much conviction as a body-sculpting pair of jeans, and three; every time I squeeze them on I’m reminded of Ross from Friends’ unfortunate leather pant-shrinking incident and, as a result, chuckle and congratulate myself that if I ever get stuck in mine, I shall know better than to mix talc and lotion to try and escape their wily confines.

So, who do we have to thank for this welcome injection of sartorial rock ‘n’ roll? Balmain have been championing punk-luxe for a while, with Christophe Decarnin refusing to dance to the beat of anyone’s drum but his own, or perhaps Keith Moon’s. Then we have ultra-hip Parisian poster girl, Isabel Marant and her red leather skinnies riffing on 50s rockabilly cool. Bottega Veneta went off-kilter this season with mannish-cut leather pants which were paired with an equally androgynous oversized blazer, whilst Hermes channelled iconic 60s Brit show The Avengers with a modern take on Emma Peel’s naughty leather catsuit. Ok, perhaps not the last one so much, but you can see why leather trousers have been the style pack’s pant of choice for a few seasons now. Being both cool AND practical, they possess two of fashion’s most elusive qualities. And you don’t get much better than that.

Originally published for Ly.st

Fashematics

Legendary leather jacket purveyors Schott have come up with this badass beauty for spring/ summer. Stockist number: 0203 358 0030.

Fashionista's London

How often do you buy birthday presents for someone that you basically want to keep for yourself? That's exactly what I've just done with this amazing 'Fashionista's London' print. Perfect for all those who know their Stella from their Steinberg and their Westfield from their Westwood.

Sidebar: It's my twenty-seventh twenty-first birthday in 4 weeks. Just sayin'.

Parisian Days

Increasingly my favourite place in the world...




























Me, The Boy and The City of Lights. Parfait.

4 Ways To Wear: Denim

Denim. The lynchpin of all wardrobes, not least my-wardrobe.com. Skinny, flared, double, coloured - I tried my hand at styling up 4 of my favourite versions of everybody's favourite fabric.

The first look, double denim, fittingly also doubles as a how-to for coloured jeans. I teamed an old pair of cobalt blue jeans with this deconstructed indigo Vivienne Westwood Anglomania by Lee shirt, turning up the cuffs for a rockabilly, Isabel Marant vibe. I'm on the hunt for the perfect pair of pastel pink jeans so if anybody sees them, holla!

This McQ Alexander McQueen denim waistcoat jacket is a great smart alternative to the classic denim jacket - cropped, strong-shouldered and perfect with a bright mini or pencil-leg trousers.

J Brand Love Storys -surely the jeans of the season - paired with a floppy hat, fur gilet and skyscraper platforms. One part Charlie's Angels to two parts Anita Pallenberg.

J Brand Stealth coated Houlihans - these are pure rock 'n' roll - scandalously skinny, finished with glossy silver zips and coated to look a bit like leather.

Words To The Wise

I in no way claim to be down with the kids, so apologies if I'm a little late to the party with this one. My little (well, 21 year old) brother Alex, on the other hand, is one of those irritatingly hip bastards who is only made cooler by the fact that he detests all things cool. Yes, it is an enigma indeed. He showed me this yesterday. The poet/ musician in question is called Scroobius Pip and this is his manifesto on how to live. I daren't draw parallels with Mike Skinner for fear of being deemed even more un-cool than previously thought. But I will tell you this: it's brilliant. And if I didn't know better, I'd say the man behind the (very impressive) beard was my brother himself. This is exactly the kind of stunt he'd pull...

"Fashion is the armour with which to survive the reality of everday life. Doing away with it would be like doing away with civilisation."

One of my very favourite things to do is forgo dinner for a big bowl of cereal and sit and watch the trailer section of the Apple website. Wow, that sounds alot sadder written down. Anyway, there are some benefits that emerge from such anti-social weekend evenings - case in point, the trailer for Bill Cunningham New York, below...

Cunningham, 80+ New York Times photographer and doyen of street style snapping, paved the way for superbloggers such as The Sartorialist and Jak & Jil. The documentary, as well as exploring Cunningham's endearing eccentricities and quasi-religious dedication to his work, also displays the importance of documenting street style as a more accurate cultural barometer than the catwalk could ever be. If you're fascinated by the cult of street style photography, this is a must-see! I'm keeping my fingers crossed it comes to London!

Obsessed With: Jeremy Scott

The title says it all really, the man's a ruddy genius. His AW11 'Candy Flip' collection succinctly channels my misspent youth; afternoons spent gallavanting round Camden market dressed in Buffalo platform trainers, inflatable accessories and 'Barbie is a slut' slogan tees, Shampoo, Republica and Lush blasting on my Discman and cobalt hair mascara streaked through my mousy teenage locks. It was my mortifyingly-titled 'glitter underground' phase, and what a jolly phase it was. A big thankyou to Mr Scott for letting me relive it briefly, if only sartorially. I've been waiting for pink fluffy-dice fur to make a catwalk comeback.

A few more of his ultra-kitsch creations...

I loved this song so much I even managed to find a way to shoehorn it into a school assembly one morning. These ladies were the original Girl Power duo.

The last video is taken from cult 90s classic, Nowhere, which I eruditely referenced here as having been Scott's inspiration for the AW show. It was.

*flicks hair in a self-satisfied manner.*

Images: Trendhunter and Style.com

Secret Style Icon: Angela Chase

A little birdie tells me that the fash pack's latest obsession du jour is going round eachothers' gaffs and indulging in My So-Called Life marathons. My reaction to this was twofold. One: I really don't blame them, and two: I'm so ahead of the game here, it pains me. Since those hormone-addled days that Jared Leto graced the teeny black & white telly in my bedroom as Jordan Catalano, I've not gone more than a few months without watching an episode of (and I don't claim this lightly) The Best TV Show Ever. If you're a fellow MSCLifer, you'll be practically weeping with comraderial agreement at this point. If you're not, I suggest you have a long, hard think about what the hell you've been doing with your life so far, perhaps have some quiet time to reflect, then order the DVD here.

I could post YouTube clips til the cows come home but I think you get the idea. Aside from Jordan Catalano's so-beautiful-it-hurts-to-look-at-it face (*snobby MSCLifer in-joke*), GBF Rickie's astonishing collection of 90s waistcoats and RayAnne's tart-with-a-heart sensibilities, the best thing about the show was Angela's lo-fi rebellious wardrobe, full of grungy Nirvana-esque checked flannel, lace-up boots and crushed velvet. I wanted to be her so bad (possible confusion with feelings for Jordan) that I even tried to dye my hair that special tone of Wella Plum mousse that she rocked so well. It turned a glorious shade of tangerine, but that's another story...

Dungarees: Topshop

Backpack: Nasty Gal

Jumper: Elizabeth and James @ My-wardrobe.com

Playsuit: Topshop

Boots: Nasty Gal

Socks: Topshop

Flannel shirt: New Look

Sleeveless shirt: Helmut Lang @ My-wardrobe.com

Jacket: Topshop

Velvet top: Nasty Gal

10 Names To Know: Part 2

Other than the endless parties, goodie bags and unashamed people-watching, one of the best parts of London Fashion Week is the thrill of discovering hot new talent. The off-schedule catwalk shows, presentations and exhibitions are all bursting at the seams with the fabulous fresh blood of the industry. Here’s my second instalment of those up-and-coming labels that are set to go stellar…

1. Holly Fulton

Her star’s been on the rise for a while now but this season, young Brit designer Holly Fulton really came into her own with a pop-tastic collection that melted even the most hardened of fashion hearts. Her tongue-in-cheek use of kitsch iconography on classic cuts and luxurious fabrics makes her brand of feelgood fashion one that we all want a slice of. Rocky Horror-inspired lip prints and a sprinkling of pearls on patent leather showcased her unmistakable wit. Paired with a great eye and a Luella-like ability to produce quirky, zeitgeisty pieces that appeal to London’s cool kids, it’s a triple threat that will see her go far.

2. Georgia Hardinge

Launching her distinctive eponymous label in 2009, Georgia Hardinge has raced ahead to be one of the most exciting new talents showcased at London Fashion Week. Encompassing both an avant-garde yet wearable aesthetic, she displays a cerebral approach to design without losing a viable commercial streak. Think strong lines, impeccable tailoring and couture-like detail, all in a stark black, white and grey palette.

3. Olivia Rubin

Olivia Rubin makes party dresses for party girls. Popping pink, thigh-skimming hemlines and cheeky prints from animal to her signature brick, make for a selection of frocks that you can’t fail to have a good time in. Coquettish yet cool; a winning combination.

4. Bjorg

Having just been named Norway’s top accessories designer, Bjorg Nordli-Mathisen is one to keep a very close eye on. Handcrafted from 18-karat gold, blackened silver and rosecut diamonds, her sometime-anatomical pieces are steeped in mythology, mysticism and the raw beauty of nature. And they pack one hell of a punch.

5. Kirsty Ward

Sculptural jewellery, strong, boned silhouettes and an affinity for texture makes Kirsty Ward’s collections truly stand out. Graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2008, she went on to work with Alberta Ferretti before launching her line last season in London. Using diaphanous organza, hard-hitting jewellery and structured, curvilinear forms, her dresses are as much objet d’art as they are clothing.

Originally published for Ly.st

P.S...check out my monster AW11 trend round-up over on the Matalan blog!

10 Names To Know: Part 1

In the frazzled wake of London Fashion week, my notebook is bursting with the names of up-and-coming designers and labels to watch; after all, London is known for its nurturing of the ‘new gen’ talent and its substantial off-schedule show timetable. Over two parts, I’m going to share the bright young things that I’m most excited about, and the labels that I think you need to know about, right now…

1. Charlie Le Mindu

Reminiscent of a young Alexander McQueen, this Bordeaux-born hairdresser-turned-designer has become the toast of London’s fashion underground. Sticking two fingers up at any form of decorum, his controversial collections are steeped in pastiche, irony and provocation. Expect nudity, kitsch and, above all, a masterfully crafted selection of hair-embellished accessories, clothing and wigs. (P.S. Go to BLOWonline to read my review of his show this season).

2. Ongwat

Australian-born, New York-based jewellery designer Paranee Ongwat named her eponymous line after her surname which, incidentally, means longevity. Her industrial-inspired pieces are crafted from black rhodium, silver, gold, tourmaline and tiger’s eye. I love her architectural style and her beautiful use of geometric shapes and rigorous line.

3. Louise Amstrup

Danish designer Louise Amstrup is seriously going places. She has a natural affinity for creating clothes that women want in their wardrobes - contemporary, chic and - that elusive quality - effortlessly cool. Think feminine, easy separates in chiffon and silk and impeccably tailored wool flannel dresses and jackets. Swoon.

4. The Kooples

This has been the name on the lips of the fash pack for the past few months and it’s easy to see why. If you’re in the market for that irritatingly cool I’ve-just-thrown-this-together aesthetic that our Gallic cousins do so well, then The Kooples (French slang for couples) is your go-to brand. Delivering his ‘n’ hers collections comprising of skinny-fit blazers, leather trousers and dandyish printed scarves, all with a rock ‘n’ roll undertone, this Parisian label is already a firm favourite.

5. Joanne Stoker

I’m a sucker for a statement shoe so when I spotted Joanne Stoker’s striking graphic creations in Somerset House’s exhibition, I rushed straight over to take a closer look. Trained at the prestigious Cordwainers College in London, she has already collaborated with fellow bright young thing, Michael van der Ham. Inspired by Art Deco, her heels are crafted from metallic leathers, exotic skins and architectural metal struts.

Originally published for Ly.st